Registered: 1122896975 Posts: 45
Reply with quote #16
Originally Posted by
hampton I bought the PIC with the right firmware from Da-Logic! This firmware supports the 18F4550, so there shouldn't be a problem!
You lost me there... When you say "bought the PIC with the right firmware", do you mean the PIC-programmer (K128) or are you refering to the PIC18F4550 itself?
Can you provide a link to Da-Logic? Couldn't find it myself.
Registered: 1132670199 Posts: 3
Reply with quote #17
I mean the PIC programmer, the PIC16F628 placed on the programmer-board!
Registered: 1460222817 Posts: 2
Reply with quote #18
Not sure if anyone is following this thread any longer, but I am having similar problems with my K150. 16F628A reads fine, appears to program but fails religiously with the same error: EEPROM error at 0X001 Good 0x01 Bad 0X00 Followed these steps: " OK, that means that the drivers are running properly, and that the drivers are able to communicate with the device. The next is a series of tests designed to locate the hardware problem, because that is about he only thing left. 1. Make SURE no pins on the PIC Programmer Chip 'F628 or 'F628A are bent or curled. 2. Instead of installing chips into the socket, install pins or #22 guage wires, anc close the latch so that they stand up straight, on pin#1(VPP1) and pin#6(GND) of the DIP40. Set the chip select to PIC16F876. Press the big READ button (ignore the errors). Measure approx 13V with a good meter (A good meter is a Fluke) while it is reading. 3. Now install wires on pin#5(VPP2) and pin#6(GND) of the DIP40. Set the chip select to PIC16F648. Press the big READ button (ignore the errors). Measure approx 13V with a good meter while it is reading. 4. Install pins or #22 guage wires on pin#35(VCCP) and pin#6(GND) of the DIP40. Press the big READ button (ignore the errors). Measure approx 5V with a good meter while it is reading. If step #2 failed, transistor TR2 has failed. If step#3 failed TR3 failed. If step#4 failed, TR1 failed. It is possible that the LS06 has failed, but unlikely. NOTE: theoretically, one could measure the transistor in circuit and verify it, but in fact the effect of other devices makes the measurement a poor test. All of those devices are the equiv of the standard workhorse PNP device PN2907/SOT23. Lemme know.. Step #2 fails . No voltage on Pin#1. Other tests are OK. I have replaced the transistor, but it did not help. I did initially (try to) update the firmware on the on-board PIC to the K150 code, but in hind site maybe that is the issue? Could the on-board PIC be bad? --Bob " thanks for any thoughts you may have Jeremy __________________ Jeremy
Registered: 1122801962 Posts: 1,902
Reply with quote #19
Has the programmer ever worked correctly? Have you been able to program PICs with it?
When upgrading the onboard firmware remember that the firmware and PC software are matched ie. when you upgrade the firmware you also need to upgrade the PC software. Inside each DIYpack you will find the matched software/firmware together. Can you go back to a known starting point with matched software and firmware? If so then that eliminates one potential problem. Programming 16F628A PICs has never been a problem so if you are having trouble programming them then it it points to a hardware problem. Firstly, what supply voltage are you using to power the K150? The programmer needs at least 16.5VDC. Some 12VDC supplies are unregulated and they will have an unloaded output of around that. A regulated 12VDC supply certainly won't. When replacing transistors make sure you connect the pins in the correct places. I assume you are using a 'normal' transistor type (with leads) and not a surface mount type. The pin layout will almost certainly not match so you will need to bend pins around to get a match. Also, are you using a PNP transistor?
Registered: 1460222817 Posts: 2
Reply with quote #20
Thanks so much for your reply, Frank.
No, the programmer has never worked properly, and after reading your post , you may have shed some light on the reason(s) 1) I have always been confused on the topic of an external power supply requirement on this thing as I have read that I do not need one. Refer to the "FEATURES" -------------------------------------------------- " Product Description K150 is a low-cost high-performance PIC programmer, supporting the most popular PIC chips. Allows reading, writing, encryption, and uses high-speed USB communication for fast programming ( speed average PICSTART + 3-5 times ). Fully automatic programming checksum ; equipped with 40pin DIP programming ZIF socket, direct programming of 8pin-40pinDIP chip; 8pin-40 pin chip as well as via the onboard the ICSP interface. Popular download software available; software-compatible the Windows98 and Windows2000/NT, Windows XP/windows7 operating system. Socketed chips for easy replacement and upgrade. Please also check out our quick start guide to using the Great Cow Basic IDE with this programmer here: Features: Support the most popular programming PIC chips, read, encryption and other features! No external power supply required, communication and power by supplied USB cable." ------------------------------------------------ Can you set me straight? If I do need one how the heck do I even hook it up?? Ribbon cable port (pinouts on that are NC, PGC,PDG,GND,CDD,VPP -- I assumed that was only for the ICSP interface)? i assumed it was powered from USB, but that does raise the question of getting 16.5v to the thing. I have a bench Power supply I can hook up... Regarding the transistors, yes, I got was was spec'd in that thread: Sorry for the Newb questions. Any advice you have is greatly appreciated. I also feel the need to tell you this was a generic knock-off that I probably should never have purchased! Everything I read says "junk it" and get a PICKit3. The fact that I can read chips and appear to erase them, gives me hope that I am simply just doing something wrong WRT programming them. You may be on to something with the power supply. PNP device PN2907 thanks, Jeremy __________________ Jeremy
Registered: 1122801962 Posts: 1,902
Reply with quote #21
The answer is obvious - this is NOT a genuine DIY programmer but a pirate copy.  just re-read your post where you mention that it is a "generic knock-off".
The genuine DIY K150 was powered via an external DC supply. This, as well as a number of pirate copies, have changed the circuit to power the programmer via USB. Not saying that this is necessarily a bad thing but it does prove that this is not a genuine DIY programmer. As I have said before, this forum has been set up (and paid for) by DIY Electronics for the benefit of their customers. However the people who sell these pirate programmers tell their customers to come to this forum for help with any problems. DIY make no money from the sale of these pirate programmers so they cannot be expected to help people who buy them. Suggest you contact reseller where you purchased it and ask them for help. I doubt they will help you - at best they might offer to refund your money. I assume you bought it on Ebay? If so then you should complain to eBay about false advertising as I have no doubt it was advertised as a "DIY K150 Programmer".